釜山

釜山 : 庆星大学文化胡同

 

迈入这条小路的瞬间,感觉时间的流逝都变得不一样了。喧闹的大学街胡同里,流传着如秘密庭院般静谧的庆星大学文化胡同的故事。在任何城市里都会有因为老旧而被闲置的空间,然而釜山的这个小小的一处胡同,被釜山出身的建筑家崔允植(최윤식)以文化胡同的形式复原了。他买了一栋住宅并且开始改造,随着来这里的人们慢慢变多,现在五栋住宅聚在一起,变成了一个真正的胡同。要设计装修这整个胡同的建筑家崔允植尽他最大的可能,原封不动地维持这个陈旧空间的韵味,装饰时也只是使用一些废弃的材料,造就了只属于这里的独特氛围。因此文化胡同在2008年获得了‘釜山风格建筑奖’大赏,成为了釜山的文化景点。想要瞧一瞧釜山过去的面貌,亦或是对釜山风格的建筑感兴趣,或者您是一位对一颗小石子儿都会感到惊喜的胡同小路散步爱好者,来这里转一转是个十分不错的选择。

 

庆星大学文化胡同来访路线

具体路线:从地铁2号线,庆星大学釜庆大学站,1号出口出来,向后转能看见一个叫Remark Vill的大楼。从Remark Vill前面左转后,一直走,走过两个街区。看到CU便利店后左转,胡同中间就是文化胡同的入口。

 


 

孩子王的音乐品味,“老歌多” 노가다

造就了这个地方的建筑家崔允植被称为孩子王。因为他是一点一点设计了这个胡同风

景的主角也因为他是这里呆的最久的人。

想要见一见他本人的话,不如去一趟这个胡同里最古老的酒馆—老歌多(노가다)吧。

在老歌多里,有着建筑家崔允植收集的,像书一样被排列着的2万多张黑胶唱片,到了晚上他会亲自歌,播放韩国经典老歌,以及曾经人气很高的流行歌曲。

黑胶唱片偶尔特有的杂音会让你有机会真切地走近并陷入模拟音响的魅力。

黑啤中出名好喝的吉尼斯黑啤配上烤得焦脆的香肠,是绝佳组合。

对于像时间旅行一样在古老的空间里寻找音乐的旅行者来说,这里绝对是他们会喜欢的地方。

来访路线:庆星大学文化胡同正面入口进,从左侧第一个阶梯上去第一家店面。

电话:051-635-4316 (韩/英/日)

营业时间:18:00~02:00 *年中无休

价格:手工香肠(수제소시지) 17,000韩元,下酒菜(마른안주) 1万韩元,吉尼斯黑啤(기네스맥주) 8,000韩元

 


 

艺术家的休息站,“猫头鹰之家” 부엉이집

文化胡同里的大渊洞是包括庆星大学在内的6所大学密集的地方。所以不仅仅是大学生们的娱乐文化,在音乐, 话剧, 文化等题材多样的活动中活跃着的年轻艺术家们也可以在这里开展他们的艺术活动。猫头鹰之家便是这些艺术家们喜爱的秘密场所。虽然这个地方是因为对饮食有研究的人们可以品尝到只使用天然辛香料制作的印度咖喱料理的地方而闻名,其实这里可以被用作包括釜山的独立乐队表演,,朗读会等享受文化活动的小型演唱会剧场。小规模演出或者活动因为是非正式的,所以想要事前确定还是比较困难,但是如果你运气好的话,没准儿碰巧就可以和釜山的年轻艺术家们一起享受一次愉快的晚餐时间呢。这里有各式红酒与经典的鸡尾酒,特别是‘猫头鹰的诱惑’,‘黄色猫头鹰’等这个地方独有的猫头鹰系列鸡尾酒人气很高,可以尝试一下。

来访路线:庆星大学文化胡同正面入口进,从左侧第一个阶梯上去后过一个桥第二家店面。

电话:010-3068-3657 (韩)

营业时间:18:00~01:00, *每周日,周一休息

价格:猫头鹰的诱惑(부엉이의유혹) 1万韩元,马蒂尼(마티니) 1万韩元,印度鸡肉咖喱(치킨마크니) 8,000韩元

 


 

在热炕房里的一夜,“过客” 길손

告诉你一个可以从早到晚享受这个胡同魅力的方法。那就是在胡同里的小旅社‘过客’里面住上一晚。在4层的屋顶小方屋里面可以体验到韩国传统的暖房方—暖炕。暖炕是指在房间旁边的灶坑里,把火移走后,热气顺着墙根使整个房间的地面全都热起来的暖房方式,身体受了寒的话,在暖炕房里睡上一宿,第二天起来又会浑身是劲儿了。韩国人把这种暖炕房的效果用畅快来表现,汗蒸房之所以人气很高也就是因为可以感受到这种畅快。当然,到了夏天的话去体验暖炕会炎热不适,这时候不如坐在可以观赏星星的空场院子里,喝一罐凉爽的啤酒来代替吧。3层是用日式的榻榻米布置的茶屋,以及挂着古色古香的吊灯的地板屋。和过去的韩国房屋一样,简单的构造让人印象深刻,就连灯的开关的造型也是颇有趣味。如果想要找一个四季愉悦,又充满着各种话题的住处,请一定不要错过‘过客’旅社。

来访路线:庆星大学文化胡同正面入口处一直走到底,右边的建筑3-4层。

电话:051-635-4316 (韩/英/日)

价格:茶屋,地板屋 7万韩元/晚(1人),9万韩元/晚(2人),小方屋 9万韩元/晚(1人),12万韩元/晚(2人)

 


 

品尝海味的深夜食堂,“海画岛” 해화도

釜山地处大海之滨,无论何时都能品尝到新鲜的水产。对韩国人来讲,是美味生鱼片的象征之地。在文化胡同中也有能品尝到釜山水产的地方。直至很晚也有能喝一壶小酒的深夜食堂—海画岛。每周都有新鲜的水产被运送进来。经过加工,制成美味。在这里能吃到许多日式小酒馆里的料理,比如生鱼片、日式叉烧、寿喜锅等。虽然根据季节会在菜单上加入活章鱼或煮章鱼,但是最有代表性的还属薄切比目鱼片,还有由厚三文鱼和明太鱼籽一起包着吃的鱼籽生鱼片。如果再搭配纯正的韩式传统烧酒,就再合适不过了。想凌晨在文化胡同里喝一杯的时候,这将是最后一个好去处。

来访路线:庆星大学文化胡同正面入口处一直走到底,沿楼梯下一层即到。

电话:010-4014-5554 (韩)

营业时间:16:00~04:00 *年中无休

价格:鱼籽生鱼片(명란사시미) 38,000韩元,辣海鲜面(매운해물짬뽕) 18,000韩元,一等真露(일품진로)(韩式传统烧酒)28,000韩元

 


 

茶馆要美丽才够味儿,“茶班” 다반

文化胡同的白天和夜晚始终不同。日落之后,迎着月光,气氛高涨,但是白天人烟稀少,却总觉得充满抒情的风景。如果说你对白天的文化胡同感动好奇,那就去咖啡店茶班看看吧。不仅有呈圆形围绕在咖啡店中央的桌位让人感到温馨,也可以坐在观察胡同每个角落的窗边位置,分享着呢喃私语。咖啡店备有咖啡、气泡水、草本茶等多种饮品,但点单的原则是每人一份。到了晚上,有配合着啤酒和红酒的简单下酒菜,像干酪玉米片、什锦水果。如果你不喜欢酒馆的吵吵闹闹,不妨来这里坐一坐。而且,由于这里灯光幽暗,照出来的照片也很有情调。

来访路线:庆星大学文化胡同正面入口处,一楼左边第一家店。

电话:051-635-4316 (韩/英/日)

营业时间:12:00~24:00 *年中无休

价格:美式咖啡 5,000韩元,咖啡冰(커피빙수) 8,000韩元,福佳白啤酒(호가든맥주) 8,000韩元,干酪玉米片(나초) 1万韩元

 


 

花的风景,“Atelier Foret” 아뜰리에포레

与咖啡店茶班相对的美丽的花店—Atelier Foret,从入口处便以灿烂的氛围照亮了胡同。相比在外面观赏,不如进到里面看更美。一旦打开门进去就会产生如果刚刚就那样错过的话一定会觉得后悔的感觉。在这里能买到鲜花、干花、花束或装饰物等商品。现在韩国正流行用简单的室内装饰方法装饰干花,所以这里也准备了多种多样的干花。如果想买个称心的小东西,推荐买一束干花回去。在韩国游玩的时候,小角落可不要随便看一看就过去,花点儿时间进到里面的空间看看,心情没准儿会变得更好呢。文化胡同所有商店里的装饰用花都是来自这里,那水平可想而知。工作区还兼做画廊,除了花以外其他值得观赏的东西也很丰富。

来访路线:庆星大学文化胡同正面入口处,一楼右边第一家店。

电话:051-637-9883 (韩)

营业时间:10:00~21:00,周日到5点 *年中无休

主页:flowerforet.com (韩)

 


 

编辑/金周彗(김주혜)  摄影/梁宇盛(양우성) 助手/Gang Han-Kil(강한길)

 

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