釜山

釜山学概论

 

如果你问我喜不喜欢釜山,我会用微笑代替回答。不知怎的有一种无法立刻回答或是迟疑的感觉,所以每次我都会问问自己,“我喜欢过釜山吗?”如果问我西安1或是和顺2的话,我会立刻告诉你很喜欢。”亦或是问我庆州3或是海参崴4,我也会告诉你:“每个季节都很有特色。”但就是釜山,我无法轻易地给出答案。那这又是为什么呢?难道跟釜山是最远的城市有关?不能轻易靠近。想起某一个城市的时候,不管去那里反复旅行过多少次,还是无法彻底了解她,缥缈又神秘,每次去都会露出不一样神情。这样的城市,对旅行者来说难道说不是最大的吸引和幸运吗?即便是现在想起釜山的时候我依然心存第一次去时的微妙的悸动。

半岛南方的最角落,釜山很远的感觉从很小的时候就自然而然的有了,如果不是在庆尚道近郊生活的人,那釜山对于韩国人来说还真的是远。我这个在韩半岛正中央附近看着论山长大的孩子,放假的时候听说有去首尔观光的,还真没怎么听说去釜山观光的呢。收到过叔叔去济州岛4天3夜新婚旅行后带回来的柑橘,但从釜山买回来的,就算是巴掌大点儿的东西也没收到过。全校学生坐着好几辆大巴去过庆州甚至是蔚山5,不知为什么就是没有去釜山。硬要说的话,可能是压根儿就没有要去的想法,感觉釜山很远,恐怕就是在当初姐姐上大学时说要和朋友们去釜山旅行时的印象最为深刻。姐姐晚上在大田6站坐上火车,到了早上才到达釜山站,‘整夜飞奔的火车’,这概念对当时的我来说,跟永远不相上下。难道就因为这样,釜山变得越来越遥远了吗?但釜山的形象却比任何一个地方都要鲜明,在“大韩民国的第二大城市7”的固有称谓下,一首在韩国人尽皆知的名曲——“回到釜山港8”中,釜山这座城市带着强烈的故事和韵律,静静地摇曳。更重要的是釜山方言,柔中带刚,一种坚韧却又温暖融化的语言。正是这种语言,成为了韩国现代史上每每遇到紧要关头时特有的情绪与活力的引发剂。电影也好,电视剧也罢,小说也好,舞台剧也罢,枷锁的开始与结束里,总是能够感受到釜山方言的温柔韵律。1950年代为了躲避战争而涌入南边的人们,这里郁积了他们太多的伤痛,于是他们干脆把伤痛放在札嘎其市场中“瞧一瞧看一看”的吆喝声中大声宣泄。虽然远,但是强烈;无从可知,但又层次分明的城市——釜山。

1. 中国陕西省的省会城市西安。通过李胜基,姜虎东,殷志源等人出演的综艺娱乐节目《新西游记》而出名,越来越多的韩国观光游客选择了这里作为目的地。
2. 全罗南道和顺郡,土地面积的70%以上由山地构成,虽然看起来朴素但是却拥有美丽风景的地方。另外,这里也是世界上独一无二的,由1300多个石墓构成的石墓王国。和顺石墓遗址于2000年12月登录世界文化遗产。

3. 庆尚北道庆州市,曾经是新罗时代的古都。可以说城市本身就是历史遗产,拥有很多的名胜古迹,是修学旅行的人气目的地的。 

4. 位于俄罗斯沿海驻地区域的城市。

5. 蔚山广域市。位于釜山正上方,以工业城市文明。

6. 大田广域市。位于韩国国土中央,从古至今一直作为交通枢纽存在。

7.  作为人口仅次于首尔的第二大都市,釜山是韩国名副其实的‘第二大城市’。另外,韩国战争当时代替首尔成为了临时首都,同时承担着港口贸易的重要角色,是领导韩国的近代化和经济成长的重要地方。

8. 1976年歌手赵永弼唱过的歌,歌词演绎了对釜山港分离的兄弟姐妹悲伤的思念和爱,引起了韩国人民强烈的情感共鸣,50年后的今天,仍然是一首可以代表釜山的歌曲。

 

 

釜山站前某酒店的18楼洒进无数灯光的某一天,昏暗中能看到远处数不清的陌生人家中的灯光,亦或是路灯的光芒闪烁,还有那中间许许多多移动的光点。我想可能是汽车吧,用眼睛紧紧捕捉到一个移动的光点,应该是能够乘坐20名左右的区间巴士,那光点就好像跟我玩捉迷藏似的,出现之后又消失不见。据说世界上所有的路都是相通的,那么连接着釜山的路又有多少呢?巴士向着毫无灯光的地方行驶,消失不见了。

曾经跟朋友说过这样的话,“在釜山坐出租车的话,从釜山站到海云台的路线起码有好几百条,从来没有一次走过相同的路。”朋友笑着点头说道,“我也这么觉得,而且每一个司机师傅都会炫耀自己选择这一条绝对是最快的!”从釜山站到海云台,海云台到釜山站,不管选择哪一条路,打车费基本都是1万元韩元左右,但每当这时,就感觉自己像是走进迷宫一般,与此同时能够感受到一种奇妙的惊险感,出租车就像是在什么热带雨林里逃亡一样,穿梭在一条条错综复杂的巷子里,司机师傅把车开进狭隘的巷子里时,我说:“釜山的路真的好多啊!”,“如果不是釜山人是绝对不可能知道这条路的!”司机兴奋地回答,继续开车前行。

釜山很大,是名副其实的大城市,从机场所在的西边开始到海云台所在的东边,就像是一副无边屏风,山麓绵延不断。虽说釜山是海的城市,但8座大山就像是屏风一般围绕着釜山悬挂,这样看来,釜山也是山的城市。

在山与海之间,装满了数不清的道路和房屋,我去釜山基本不开车,即便是无可奈何开车去了釜山,我也选择在停留的时日里,把车好好地停在酒店的停车场。我在釜山经常打车,在釜山我最喜欢的事情就是打车往返于釜山站和海云台之间。“司机师傅,一定要走经过广安大桥9的那条路!”我就是是为了经过广安大桥而坐出租车。特别是从海云台到釜山站经过的广安大桥的那条路,它美丽的姿态和顺畅的线条让人喜爱不已。我有时会跟出租车司机说这样的话:“司机师傅,您能帮我开到广安大桥的那边再掉头回到这里吗?”每次问的时候我总是按耐不住心中欢喜笑出声,“好嘞!”司机师傅也跟着我一起笑了。

 

9. 位于釜山市区水营区南青洞和海云台区Centurm City附近的桥梁。晚上有10万种以上色彩的夜间照明,让釜山的夜变得更加美丽。

 

 

2002年的深秋,广安大桥还没有正式通车的时候,我在釜山度过了几日,那时正巧是釜山国际电影节10开幕的日子,从1996年首次举办以来,釜山电影节一直是向韩国、亚洲、甚至全世界介绍釜山的重要契机。在釜山,寒冷空气中弥漫着一股烧烤的温暖香味,人们看起来像是各自寻找着一捧时不时能拿出来回味的柔软回忆一般。看完一场电影,等待着下一场电影放映的期间,我们围坐在方桌旁边,各自开始发表自己对釜山的看法,“我很想了解乙淑岛11是个什么样的地方?”在我很小的时候,母亲看过的一本杂志里说道,乙淑岛是候鸟们的天堂,更神奇的是,从那天开始对于我来说,天堂的感觉就这样跟乙淑岛的名字画上了等号。听着朋友的话我想起了太宗台12,“我还没去过太宗台呢,看着照片里面的石头开始对那里产生好奇,实际上来釜山却一次都没有去过。”何止这些,我也没去过影岛13,先别说区分松亭海水浴场和松岛海水浴场14了,我连哪儿是哪儿都不知道。一直想在下雪的时候亲眼看看电影《亲切的金子》(2005)15中金子(李英爱)拿着枪奔跑过的周礼女高的巷子16,但是也一直没有实现。去金刚植物园17温室的话,古老的花盆中弥漫着时间味道,他们的古拙之美我至今未曾知道。想在波涛起伏的日子,出神的看着冲浪的人们,但是每当我到釜山的时候,波浪总是出乎意料的平静。大致算算釜山也来过差不多十六次了,比起我知道的釜山,不知道的更多,这一点也成为了我再来釜山的理由。

10. 每年10月在釜山开幕的电影节,是亚洲最大的电影交易市场。
11.
 位于釜山洛东江下流的小岛。鸟多水清的岛,每年有140多种10万多之候鸟的栖息地。

12.
  位于釜山影岛区南边海岸的奇岩绝壁。因为新罗太宗武烈王喜欢在这里射箭,所以在名字里面用了太宗。郁郁葱葱的树林和形状绮丽的悬崖绝壁,海边开阔的视野,能够在这里欣赏美丽的风景。

13.
  位于釜山西南边的岛,通过4座大桥和陆地连接,在此之前是作为牧场使用的。

14.
  松亭海水浴场位于海云台的北边,松岛海水浴场则在南边。两个海水浴场的名字太像,所以有很多人都记不清楚。

15. 
 2005年上映的朴灿旭导演的电影。在《报仇是我的任务》(2002),《老男孩》(2003)之后朴灿旭导演的报仇三部曲的完结篇,是一部讲述被冤枉扣上儿童诱拐和杀人罪名,经历13年牢狱的女人计划缜密的报仇剧。通过大长今被广大观众熟知的李英爱是这部电影的主人公,饰演了李金子一角。

16.
 电影《亲切的金子》中反复登场的空间,古旧的巷子营造阴森的气氛,在演员的精湛演技之下创造了多个经典场面。

17. 
 1969年建成的韩国最初的民营植物园,爬满了岁月痕迹的古老建筑和华丽的植物一起营造出了独特的风景。入场券是成人1000元韩币,小孩500元韩币。

 

 

不久前2月末的某一天,首尔还是冬天,但是感觉釜山已经有了春天的味道。一大清早从釜山站前的酒店出来准备动身去海云台,“司机师傅,我要去冬柏岛18。”现在山茶花应该差不多开了吧?“花开的冬柏岛春天已至,没有兄弟姐妹的釜山港只有海鸥的悲鸣19”只要是韩国人都知道这句歌词,更是能领会其中深意。在冬天绽放的山茶花,比起灿烂的欣喜更多的是恻隐的悲凉,说不定这种情愫正是从这歌词中而来。我哼着歌谣走到了冬柏岛的最顶端。那里有新罗崔致远20的铜像,这天也知道了新的事实,正是崔致远用‘大海’的‘海’字和‘云彩’的‘云’字命名了这个地方。西元前868年,当时12岁的崔志远留学于唐朝,只花了7年的时间状元及第。他是聪慧过人的学者,也是如同留白一般引人回味的文豪。他从新罗回来之后,担任过好几个官职,但是最终选择成为畅游山海之间的旅行家,在这片土地上留下痕迹。千年前的名字,一直延续到千年之后仍在使用是怎样的一种感受?千年之前崔致远看到的海云台和现在我看到的海云台之间到底流淌着什么?这山茶花又是是从何时在这里花开又花落?花若尚未绽放那又是什么已经悄然掉落?

那天下午,我采访了一个19岁的少年,釜山海东高中柔道部三年级的学生,现在正在提高体重级别强壮身体的阶段,3月在顺天21有第一场比赛,当然是以夺冠为目标。采访他的时候我把从冬柏岛捡的一支山茶花送给了他,“这是什么花呀?”“你不知道山茶花吗?釜山人怎么可能不知道山茶花?”他笑了。不知怎的,这个提问与“首尔人竟然没有坐过汉江游览船?”有异曲同工之妙。在当地生活的人和到那里旅行的人还是有某种程度上的区别的,在同一个空间感受着这城市不同的味道。“你觉得在釜山生活怎么样?”我知道这并不是一个好问题,“我很喜欢!我喜欢,釜山!”而他坚定有力的回答让我欣喜。

阳光洒满了日帝时代建造的日式建筑贞蘭阁22的二楼,我们在那里喝了柚子茶,聊了一些该聊的话题之后准备各自回程,他坐上回家的车之后向我招了招手,因为他的家在那里,那我呢?我又要去哪里?这个想法开始延伸出万千思绪无法停止。要不要去对马岛23一趟?坐船的话只要两个小时,如果能在回程的船上享受听着《回到釜山港》的浪漫那又何乐而不为呢?如果不自觉流下眼泪,那又何尝不是一种久违的喜悦呢?我坐上出租车跟司机说:“师傅,我要去釜山港。”司机问道:“你要去哪里?”我说:“不,我还要回釜山来。”司机有点不明所以于是透过后视镜看了我一眼也没有再继续追问。我会心一笑。

18. 山茶花随处盛开的冬柏岛,原来是是一座岛,但是在 长久的退潮作用下跟陆地连为一体。2005年召开的APEC会议,在岛南部的Apec会议中心举办。
19.
 赵永弼《回到釜山港》第一小结的歌词。

20. 
9世纪统一新罗末期的学者,去唐朝留学的时候留下了数不清的诗和文章被世人所知。

21. 
全罗南道顺天市,作为世界5大沿岸湿地的顺天湾,同时是2013年国际庭院博览会场,顺天湾国家庭院被越来越多的人知道。

22. 
日帝国时代作为日本人的铁道厅厅长的别墅的高级住宅。不久之前内部重新装修之后,改建成了咖啡店和民俗,同事给他起了一个新的名字‘文化共感 水晶’。

23. 
日本长崎县附近的岛屿,离韩国最近的日本地域。离釜山只有仅仅50千米,天气好的时候可以在广安大桥上看到对马岛。

 


 

文字,照片/ 张佑喆(장우철)
韩国《GQ》杂志的feature director、摄影家。对人物和风景拥有独特审美的他在韩国拥有一匹粉丝。出版了《这里和那里》,《因为喜欢所以微笑》两本书,举办了4次摄影展示会。

 

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