釜山

釜山一日游

 

就算是生活在没有买不到的东西,没有吃不到的美味的首尔人,他们也有一个羡慕的城市。那便是海滨城市—釜山了。釜山位于韩半岛的最南端,与南海相临,但其实只要做好计划,从首尔出发一天也可以往返。现在我就来为你介绍一下能够在一天之内尽情欣赏釜山海洋景观以及美食的日程吧。要说按照这个行程来玩的话,一天之内可以完全感受到釜山的魅力也不为过。当然,这将是个紧凑的一天,在这一天里,你可以生动得,深切地感受到这一切。

 


 

首尔出发去釜山

从首尔去釜山的话,利用什么交通工具比较好呢?飞机的话大约需要55分钟,但是要去比较偏的金浦机场乘坐(在首尔站搭乘机场铁路约22分钟),而且价格也相对比较贵。高速巴士的车费是最便宜的,但少说也得4小时30分钟才能到达。搭出租车的话车费最少也要30万韩元,所以出租车先不考虑了。

所以对于第一次去釜山旅行的人来说,我比较推荐乘坐火车前往。直接在首尔站出发,买票和乘车手续也不难。如果时间比较充裕的话,乘坐耗时5小时的一般列车也可以,但是对于想要当天往返,一分一秒都很珍贵的旅行者来说,就得乘坐高速列车KTX了。

乘坐KTX的话差不多2个半——3个小时就可以到达釜山了。好好安排一下行程的话,一日三餐都可以在釜山好好享受了之后再回首尔。

 

• TIP:Korail Pass 

推荐KTX还有一个理由。那就是外国人可以在使用期限内无限次乘车的‘Korail Pass’。有了Korail Pass,你可以在规定期限内,无限制地搭乘KTX,一般列车与观光列车。它分为1日券,3日券和7日券,根据时间不同价格也不一样。

Korail Pass 1日券的价格是81,000韩元。如果不使用Korail Pass,单买KTX车票的话首尔—釜山往返的价格是119,600韩元(一般席位标准)。所以用Korail Pass的话可以省差不多4万韩元呢。

在Korail(韩国铁路局)官网上购买后,在首尔站用电子票和身份证件兑换Korail Pass券即可。详细信息请参照Korail官网。

中文订票页面 : www.letskorail.com

 

• 日程

08:37 釜山站 > 09:10 札嘎其市场 > 09:50 东宫生鱼片 > 10:30 BIFF广场 > 11:30 甘川文化村 > 14:00 双胞胎猪肉汤饭 > 15:30 非非非堂 > 17:00 月光路 > 18:30 海云台母牛排骨 > 20:30 釜山站

 

08:37

釜山站 부산역

 

乘坐清晨的火车,在车上睡个2个半小时后就到达釜山了。伸个懒腰,我们开始今天的旅程吧!今天会一直搭乘釜山地铁来游览,所以要先出釜山站。釜山火车站和地铁站是分开的。从釜山站7号口人行扶梯下去,便是釜山站广场了。站在釜山站广场上,可以看见整个雄伟帅气的釜山火车站建筑。我们在这里拍下在釜山的第一张纪念照吧。横穿广场经过一个喷泉就是地铁釜山站的8号口。地铁坐到南浦站,就可以来到我们的第一个目的地-札嘎其市场了。(比起札嘎其站,从南浦站下来过去更近。)

 

• TIP:在釜山站乘坐大众交通

釜山站7号口出来就是广场,找路很简单。广场左右两边都有出租车等车点,正前方就是公交站和地铁站。

啊,对了!还有几个小事情要提醒一下。一定要区分好釜山火车站和地铁釜山站,不能搞混了。例如釜山站7号口,需要确认好是火车站的7号口还是地铁站的7号口。

 

• TIP:购买交通卡和乘坐地铁

1) 在釜山站坐地铁的话需要先买一张交通卡。从地铁站8号口一进去就可以看见右边有一个便利店,在那里就可以购买。交通卡根据设计的不同价格也不同,但差异也不过在2,500韩元左右。在这充值1万韩元左右,一日游的交通费就足够了。因为充值只能使用现金,要提前换好韩元。

*需要购买交通卡并充值1万韩元的话,请给便利店职员出示下面这句话。

“교통카드 1매와 충전 1만원어치 부탁드립니다” 

 

 

2) 如果只乘一次地铁,买交通卡觉得麻烦的话,在站内也可以购买单次乘车券。自动购票机上支持中文,直接点击想要去的站名再支付车费即可。

 

 

3) 乘坐地铁时一定要参照路线图看好要去的方向。可以看好自己所在的站名和目的地站名的方向,然后按照方向确认那条线的终点站名一致后再上车。列车进站时也会有中文广播,可以仔细听好方向后上车。

 

09:10

札嘎其市场 자갈치 시장

 

从大清早开始行走在贩卖各种海鲜水产,充满活力的水产市场里,心情也跟着变得朝气蓬勃。这个市场就在大海的边上。经过热闹的胡同,向着大海走近,就像韩国电影里出现的场面一样,站在闲适的码头边看看海。我想也许正是因为很多电影都是在釜山拍摄的,才有这种熟悉的氛围。

交通:地铁1号线南浦站2号出口出来直走,第二个十字路口左转。(出站后步行约5分钟)

地址:釜山广域市中区札嘎其海岸路52号 札嘎其市场 (부산광역시 중구 자갈치해안로 52 자갈치시장)

电话:051-245-2594 (韩)

营业时间:08:00~22:00  *每月第一,第三周的周二休息

主页:参考VisitKorea (中)

 

09:50

东宫生鱼片店 동궁횟집

 

水产市场咸咸的空气刺激着食欲,肚子开始饿得咕咕叫了。在釜山的第一餐吃些什么好呢?既然都来了水产市场,尝一尝刚从釜山海里抓上来的海鲜一定很鲜美,但是一大早就吃生鱼片的话,肠胃可能不太适应……苦恼着在札嘎其市场附近徘徊,就是这个时候,一阵香喷喷,又有点儿咸津津的味道让我停住了脚步。 叫做东宫生鱼片店的店铺里传来让人无法拒绝的阵阵香味,我决定了!在釜山的第一餐就吃‘烤鱼’了。后来才知道这里是很多外国游客也特地会找来的名店。这里有多种多样的海鲜料理,但招牌菜就是烤鱼。我点了一份烤鱼拼盘,烤得焦黄的青花鱼,带鱼和鲽鱼丰盛得被装在盘子里端上来。把鱼肉放在米饭上,吃一大勺,代表釜山的青花鱼味道浓郁又有嚼劲,真是绝了。再吃一口松软的带鱼肉,可口的鲽鱼,挨个儿地品尝能够唤醒你味觉的烤鱼料理,不知不觉肚子饱了,真是让人满足的第一餐。

交通:

1) 地铁1号线札嘎其站10号出口出来后直走,十字路口向右,胡同尽头的右边。(出站后步行约3分钟)

2) 从札嘎其市场出发 :札嘎其市场1号口出来,左边可以看见一个水产品共同贩卖场。顺着贩卖场胡同走大概2分钟,在3岔路的入口处即是。(出站后步行约2分钟)

地址:釜山广域市中区札嘎其海岸路29番地 (부산광역시 중구 자갈치해안로 29번지)

电话:051-242-1855 (韩)

营业时间:08:00~22:00

价格:烤鱼 一人份(생선구이 1인분) 1万韩元,小份 2万韩元,中份 3万韩元 

 

10:30

BIFF广场 비프광장

在去甘川文化村之前,我们先去一趟BIFF(Busan International Film Festival)广场吧。快到BIFF广场的时候,就会发现路两边有很多卖美食的小吃摊。在这么多美味的路边小吃中,最吸引人的要数果仁糖饼了。果仁糖饼是用面包裹着各种坚果和糖,再用油炸出来的小吃,是来釜山的话绝不能错过的美食之一。虽然刚吃完烤鱼大餐还不到半个小时,但是这个绝不能错过的美味怎么能够就这么放弃呢。饭是饭,零食是零食,我决定吃一个了!

已经有很多人为了尝到果仁糖饼排起了队,不单单是韩国人,还有很多外国游客。果然是釜山的代表小吃,真是让人更加期待起来。果仁糖饼的价格为1,200韩元,队伍虽长但还好不一会儿就排到了,好不容易买到的果仁糖饼散发着香甜味儿。外面酥脆里面劲道的口感与香甜的坚果类在一起真是天作之合。

交通

1)地铁1号线札嘎其站7号出口出来后直走,左转进入胡同。(出站后步行约1分钟)

2)从东宫生鱼片店出发 :从东宫生鱼片店正面往右边直行。走过十字路口后继续直行,到了有MEGA BOX影院和星巴克的十字路口后右转 (步行约5分钟)

地址:釜山广域市中区BIFF广场路25 (부산광역시 중구 비프광장로 25)

主页:参考VisitKorea (中)

 

11:30

甘川文化村 감천문화마을

甘川文化村的旅程始于位于入口右边的服务中心。推荐游客先在服务中心花2,000韩元购买文化村地图。地图上细致地标明了村落道路,对游览有很大的帮助。地图的背面还为您准备了印章栏,可以将村落各处放置的印章印在上面。印章放置的地方都是甘川文化村风景优美,适合拍照的地方。只要把印章都集满,就能完成一段充实的旅程。如果您携带的行李很多的话,可以寄存在服务中心里的保管箱里后轻装出发。

甘川文化村的胡同里既有卖纪念品的艺术商店,也有卖鱼糕之类的小吃店。还有装修得像能感受到宇宙般幽暗的店等等,值得观赏的东西非常多。因为大部分都是本地人居住的地方,所以需要游客们降低说话的音量,遵守规矩游览。胡同并不复杂,不论进入哪个胡同,转一转,再跟着地图上的大路回来都是很容易的,可以放心的去散步。甘川文化村就是那种即使迷路了都觉得幸福的地方。边走边逛就来到了甘川文化村最具人气的小王子雕像。小王子是坐着俯视村庄,旁边搭着人肩膀的模样,大家都秩序井然得拍照。从小王子旁边望去,村落像山一样林立。五彩缤纷的建筑真的太美了。这里曾经是韩国战争时难民及穷人们住的区域,现在变成了人们来访的胜地。不禁再次感叹,即使地形地貌没有变化,城市也能够变得不一样啊。

交通 : 沿着地铁一号线札嘎其站1号出口出来的反方向直行后左转。在GS25便利店前的公交站乘坐沙下区1-1(사하구1-1)路或者西区2(서구2)路公交车于甘丁小学-甘川文化村站(감정초등학교-감천문화마을정류장)下车。(总共用时约18分钟)

地址 : 釜山广域市沙下区甘内2路203 (부산광역시 사하구 감내2로 203)

电话 : 051-204-1444 (韩/英)

营业时间 : 09:00~18:00 (3月~10月),09:00~17:00 (11月~2月)

主页 : 参考VisitKorea (中)

 

14:00

双胞胎猪肉汤饭 쌍둥이 돼지국밥

兴致勃勃得穿梭在甘川文化村的胡同中,难免会感到有些饿了。觉得饿的时候,用什么来填饱这旅程中珍贵的一餐呢?这顿就尝尝到釜山必吃的猪肉汤饭吧。一想到耐饿又丰盛的极品猪肉汤饭就觉得更饿了呢。向着釜山数万的猪肉汤饭店中最有名的双胞胎猪肉汤饭店前进吧。

就如同有名的饭店一样,人们已经在门口排起了队。结束了长时间的等待,进饭店刚要点猪肉汤饭的瞬间,比我早进来的人点了个“猪肉白饭”。虽然比猪肉汤饭贵2,000韩元,它是由汤饭和猪肉组成的套餐,搭配起来更加美味。所以我也跟着点了份猪肉白饭。不一会儿,一碗雪白浓汤的猪肉汤饭和一盘富有光泽又看起来很嫩的猪肉一起上来了。舀了一口汤喝,果然香味醇正。就算是第一次吃猪肉汤饭的人也会三两下就把一碗吃光,因为太过美味了!果然肉也很好吃,入口之后慢慢融化,柔软的口感称得上是极品。

把猪肉汤饭的绝配——拌韭菜放一点进去,哇!比刚才更好吃了。这次尝尝将猪肉蘸虾酱后再和拌韭菜一起吃。果然!拌韭菜有将所有食物变得更好吃的魔力。不一会儿碗就见底了。

交通

1)沿着地铁2号线大渊站3号出口和5号出口之间的道路直行约5分钟。

2)从甘川文化村出发 :在文化村出入口乘坐出租车约24分钟 (车费约13,000韩元)

地址:釜山广域市南区UN和平路 (35-1 부산광역시 남구 유엔평화로 35-1)

电话:051-628-7020 (韩)

营业时间:09:00~24:00

价格:猪肉白饭(수육백반) 8,500韩元,猪肉汤饭(돼지국밥) 6,500韩元

 

15:30

非非非堂 비비비당

虽然听说过釜山也有很多像首尔的那样美的咖啡店,但是都到釜山了就想去看看首尔没有的,比较特别的店。向着海云台迎月岭附近的大海望去,我想起一个很不错的茶坊,便立刻打车过去。

30分钟后出租车停在了一个坡上。一进入非非非堂不由得感叹,到处摆放的美术作品、陶瓷和宽敞的窗户外犹如一幅画一般的大海浑然一体。

非非非堂是韩国传统的茶坊,在这里可以体验韩国本土的茶文化。这里不仅卖发酵茶、季节性花茶、绿茶等,还另外出售与每个茶品适合的茶点和茶具。点了可以同时品尝红豆粥和茶的套餐,红豆粥会用华美的容器盛过来,伴随着优美的风景和美丽的容器,碗中的红豆粥犹如天鹅绒一般柔软。茶坊的名字非非非堂来源于佛教语“非想非非想天”,意为超越一切。在这个幻想超越的地方,可以暂时逃出日常生活放空一下心境。

交通

1)在地铁2号线苌山站8号出口一出来的公交站乘坐海云台区2号(해운대구2)、海云台区7号(해운대구7)、海云台区10号(해운대구10)公交车后于东海寺公交站(동해사정류장)下车。往反方向直行约两分钟后沿右手边的下坡直行2分钟。(总共用时约13分钟)

2)从双胞胎猪肉汤饭出发 :向着汤饭店正门的左边直行。乘坐地铁2号线从大渊站到苌山站下车。苌山站8号出口一出来的公交站乘坐海云台区2号(해운대구2)、海云台区7号(해운대구7)、海云台区10号(해운대구10)公交车后于东海寺公交站(동해사정류장)下车。往反方向直行约两分钟后沿右手边的下坡直行2分钟。(总共用时约45分钟)

地址:釜山广域市海云台区迎月路239-16 (부산광역시 해운대구 달맞이길 239-16)

电话:051-746-0705 (韩)

营业时间:11:00~22:00 *每周一及节日当天休息

价格:抹茶(말차) 1万韩元,青梅茶(매실차) 1万韩元,季节性花茶(계절꽃차) 1万韩元,红豆粥(단팥죽) 1万韩元,南瓜刨冰(호박빙수) 1万韩元 *所有茶类包含茶点

 

17:00

月光路(Moontan Road) 문탠로드

从非非非堂出来沿着月光路往下走就发现一条沿海岸线建造的散步小径。这条路的名字就叫月光路。意为享受着月光的步行路。虽然太阳还没有下山,不能像它的名字一样享受着月光散步,但是从郁郁葱葱的树叶缝隙中洒下来柔软的阳光与在清凉的坡路上脚踏碎石的声音,真是宛如幻境。

走了30分钟就看到了月光路的尽头。走过去看了看牌匾,原来这里是入口。这才知道原来我是从出口走到了入口啊。入口如何出口又如何,月光如何阳光又如何。只要心情愉悦地走着,欣赏着美丽的风景,享受兴致勃勃地旅行就好。

交通

1)在地铁2号线海云台站7号出口前的公交站乘坐39、100、141号公交车于尾浦月光路入口站(미포문탠로드입구 정류장)下车。向着公交车行进的反方向步行50米后在五岔路口左转(月光路指示牌方向)步行约8分钟(总共用时约20分钟)。

2)从非非非堂出发:沿着非非非堂出来的下坡直行约5分钟

地址:釜山广域市海云台区月光路120 (부산광역시 해운대구 달맞이길 120)

 

18:30

海云台母牛排骨 해운대 소문난 암소갈비집

这是在釜山的最后一餐了,所以想了好久晚上要吃什么。虽然心里想着要吃新鲜的生鱼片就着烧酒,但是喝着一杯两杯酒就想要昏昏欲睡了。况且我们又是忙碌紧凑的一日游。所以决定生鱼片和酒还是留到下次再吃吧,这次吃点别的。在旅程的最后,我看到了海云台最有名的饭店之一“海云台母牛排骨”。海云台母牛排骨始于1964年,经过50年岁月的洗礼,味道和服务依旧没有改变。是釜山最有代表性的排骨店。最近通过韩国流行的电视节目《周三美食汇》的介绍,这家店的人气更是上了一层楼。砖瓦屋顶的韩屋模样的装修散发着高档的氛围,可提供容纳4~40人的大小包间,无论是家庭聚会还是作为其他重要聚会的场所,都是很合适的。点了1人份的生牛排骨和1人份的腌制牛排后,精致的小菜和颜色鲜红的排骨就登场了。在这里只选用一级以上的特等韩牛里脊肉。据说生牛排经过处理后放置24小时,腌制牛排要用酱汁腌制36个小时才能入味。将肉放在烤盘上,隐隐的炭香加上韩牛的香味,让人食欲大增。将一片烤好的软嫩的韩牛小心的放入口中,韩牛醇正的风味和嫩滑的口感回味无穷。作为釜山的最后一顿饭真是一点都不逊色。

交通 : 地铁2号线海云台站1号出口出来后直行2分钟,在MEGA BOX前右转后直行5分钟,在釜山银行前的三岔路口左转后直行4分钟。(出站后总共用时15分钟)

地址 : 釜山广域市海云台区中洞2路 10号街32-10 부산광역시 해운대구 중동2로10번길 32-10

电话 : 051-746-0033 (韩)

营业时间 : 11:30~22:00 *节假日休息

价格 : 生牛排 1人份(생갈비1인분/180g) 42,000韩元,腌制牛排 1人份(양념갈피1인분/180g) 36,000韩元,烤肉1人份(불고기1인분/180g) 3万韩元 

主页 : www.해운대소문난암소갈비.kr (韩)

 

20:30

釜山站 부산역

乘坐出租车30分钟后又再次到达了釜山站。(车费约16,000韩元) 不停地走着、美味地吃着,到处都能与大海形成的风景相遇的釜山。虽然一整天都在马不停蹄地逛着,但是真的想好好地欣赏这个城市,一天还是远远不够的。现在这个时间还有不少去首尔的火车,让人放心多了。下到站台之前,买了釜山的名品三振鱼糕可乐饼放在包里。真想把釜山带回首尔啊。

 


 

编辑/金周彗(김주혜)  金钟赫(김종혁) 

摄影/梁宇盛(양우성) 助手/Gang Han-Kil(강한길)

 

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