釜山

到过釜山的人们的一点浅见

当人们说起自己喜爱的事物时,眼睛都会变亮。在这里我会为你们专门介绍一下釜山的旅游编辑、釜山出身的建筑师、以釜山为背景拍摄电影的电影制作人等,如若让他们亲自来讲述关于釜山的故事,通宵达旦恐怕也讲不完。对你而言,釜山是个什么样的城市?在釜山如鱼得水的人们又是怎样玩转釜山的呢?

 


 

崔允植(建筑师) 최윤식

:家山建筑师事务所董事长,釜山文化景点“庆星大文化街”创建人

 

我是在釜山出生长大的地道当地人。甚至从未想过离开釜山去他乡生活,可以看出我是个彻头彻尾深爱釜山的人。对那些有着釜山旧景和时间痕迹的街道和建筑,我总是特别感兴趣。创建庆星大文化街,也是想把那些保留着人们记忆中渐变模糊的釜山历史和回忆的地方再次复兴起来。釜山是个港口城市,日本和美国等各国文化很早就已融合进来。复合型文化是釜山的重要特征,也是釜山的魅力所在。草梁洞的草梁故事路,是以釜山站为起点边散步边参观的好地方。从日本殖民统治时期开始,到战后避难生活、产业振兴时期,釜山所经历的关于韩国近现代历史的点点滴滴都在这里有迹可寻。推荐大家乘坐单轨缆车上168阶梯,沿途脑中浮现人们曾经步行爬上陡峭阶梯的生活景象;另外还推荐大家在“Brown hands百济”里享受一刻咖啡时光,这里是由1922年建成的百济医院改造成的咖啡厅。釜山并不是规划好后建设起来的都市,而是按照当时所需顺其自然形成的空间,现在还有一些保留着。在这个瞬息万变、日新月异的世上,想要再见到这种老城区已非易事,更让人感觉到釜山这类地方的魅力与珍贵。

 

• 草梁故事路 초량이바구길

 

交通:地铁1号线釜山站5号口出来后右转直走。在街道尽头再次右转后,约步行1分钟,可以看到街道对面指向草梁故事路的指示板,沿小路往上走即可。(距地铁站约6分钟路程)

主页:www.2bagu.co.kr (韩/英) *参考VisitKorea (中) 

 

• Brown hands百济 브라운핸즈 백제

 

交通:地铁1号线釜山站7号口出来后左转直走,在街道尽头右转,再往前直走一段看见的红砖建筑。(距地铁站约2分钟路程)

地址:釜山广域市东区中央大路209番街16 (부산광역시 동구 중앙대로209번길 16)

电话:051-464-0332 (韩)

营业时间:10:00~22:30 *全年无休

价格:美式咖啡 4,800韩元,西柚汁(자몽쥬스) 7,300韩元

 


 

朴欢喜(旅游编辑) 박환희

:以游客的视角找寻釜山的魅力,并向大家介绍釜山的釜山旅游发展局旅游市场研究员

 

“我从高中就开始在釜山生活了。考上大学后,虽然有7年时间不在釜山,任职于釜山旅游发展局后,又再次回到了故乡。重回釜山最开心的当然是可以再看到大海这件事了。风和日丽的日子里,开车驶过广安大桥,望见波光粼粼的大海,什么劳累辛苦统统都可以抛到脑后。”都说夏天是釜山旅行最适合的季节,我个人想推荐大家春天来一趟釜山,漫天樱花绽放,许多景点都可以赏樱。今年春天,朋友就准备从首尔过来釜山,乘坐双层观光巴士环城赏花。观光巴士从广安里海水浴场开始,途经南川洞三益Beach town公寓,开往海云台路,沿途感觉好似驶过一条极美的樱花隧道(三益Beach town公寓附近樱花盛开的时期为每年4月5日~10日左右)。拍照或是录视频留作纪念的话,一定会成为这辈子最难忘的记忆,对此我深信不疑。

釜山的年轻人,按照逛街去处的不同,可以分为三大派:西面派、南浦洞派、釜山大派。釜山逛街的首选之地——西面,这里有各大服装店入驻的西面地下商业街,以及被称为西面1号街的这条繁华街道上,街头时尚服饰店也鳞次栉比。如果喜欢个性点的风格,推荐去复古风店家颇多的南浦洞。釜山大附近,因其地理位置上靠近大学,适合年轻大学生族群的漂亮衣服相当多,购物推荐时专门把这里单另出来介绍了。我自己其实是釜山大旁边“Choonhee”这家服装店的常客,这家店性价比很高,款式质量皆佳,价格还不贵。

 

• 三益Beach Town公寓 삼익 비치타운 아파트

 

交通:地铁2号线金莲山站1号和3号口中间那条街道往里直走,看见广安里海边时右转,沿海岸直走出现的公寓社区。(距地铁站约10分钟路程)

 

• Choonhee 춘희

 

交通:地铁1号线釜山大学站1号口出来后,正面那条街道往里直走,在十字路口处左转,左边街道的祖母绿色衣服店。(距地铁站约2分钟路程)
地址:釜山广域市金井区长箭路12番街34 (부산광역시 금정구 장전로12번길 34)

电话:051-582-9940 (韩)

营业时间:12:00~22:00 *全年无休

主页:storefarm.naver.com/choonhee (韩)

 


 

李道善(设计师) 이도선

:用皮革作原料制作皮包、椅子、装饰物件等各式产品的皮革工艺品牌DOSUN DESIGN总经理

 

在釜山生活直到军队服役结束后,远赴日本神户学习了产品设计。现在重新回到釜山,经营个人品牌DOSUN(道善)DESIGN,并再次开始这里的生活。一直住在釜山的话,对这里的一切会习以为常。所以其他地方的朋友来玩的话,我会给他们推荐值得去的地方,并带他们一起去,自己也对釜山有了新的认识。大家说起釜山,都会首先想起大海,其实山也很多,还可以欣赏到令人感叹的壮美夜景。特别是在荒岭山烽燧台的顶峰,无论从东南西北哪个方向来看,釜山都是这么动人。虽然有点土气却处处充满人情味的传统市场,不管何时何地都可以品尝到新鲜海鲜也算时釜山的一大优点。文艺气息浓郁的田浦洞咖啡街,以及沿着江边路依次排列的温泉川美食街都很不错。温泉川每到4月,沿途樱花盛开,绝对是散步的最佳之选。如果说已经吃过了釜山最具代表性的美食——拌粉条和猪肉汤饭,那我推荐品尝一下鳕鱼汤。我常去的是位于海云台尾浦的“舒畅鳕鱼汤”这家店,喝上一大碗美味的鳕鱼汤,再到海云台海边散个步,感觉幸福离我并不遥远。

 

• 荒岭山烽燧台 황령산봉수대

 

交通:在地铁1号线市厅站4号口旁边的公交车站市厅站(시청역정류장),搭乘莲堤区1(연제구1)路公交车,于第13站水满谷站(물만골정류장)下车后,顺坡步行约20分钟即可。(共需40分钟左右,其中公交车程约为19分钟)

主页:参考VisitKorea (中)

 

• 舒畅鳕鱼汤 속씨원한대구탕

 

交通:地铁2号线中洞站7号口出来后直走约10分钟,在星巴克所在的五岔口处,往GS25便利店旁边的巷子里走进去(巷子尽头可以看见大海),直走到海堤处右转,再直走约2分钟,左手边的小巷子走进去即可。(距地铁站约15分钟路程)

地址:釜山广域市海云台区迎月路62番街28 (부산광역시 해운대구 달맞이길62번길 28)

电话:051-744-0238 (韩)

营业时间:24小时 *节假日休息

价格:鳕鱼汤(대구탕) 1万韩元,鱼籽鸡蛋卷(알말이)(加入鳕鱼籽的鸡蛋卷) 6,000韩元

 


 

Park Gang Hee(刺绣艺术家) 박강희

:通过刺绣这种艺术形式制作化妆包、台历、手绢等丰富多样的物件,现于釜山望美洞内经营一家名为“倍丹多”的刺绣工坊

 

在首尔生活的时候,是一名面料设计师,婚后追随老公来到釜山生活。每天在家做做家务,把自己绣的手工刺绣品传上博客,本来只是个爱好,突然有人邀请我开个课程,于是就有了这个工作室。我心目中釜山完美的一天,是夏天在广安里海边度过的时间。广安里有许多情调满满的老板开的漂亮咖啡店,我也因此常去这里,其中最爱的要属离广安里海水浴场不远的“Fruity”这家。顺路来Fruity买杯当季水果饮料,配上老公给我烤的面包一起,幸福不过如此。说起时尚,一定会想到南浦洞。二手市场、高街品牌店和百货店共存的区域,可以发现各式各样的风格。这里我最喜欢的就是二手市场里每张只卖1,000韩元的复古手绢。发现手工绣上刺绣做出复古手绢的那天,可谓好运的一天!如果寻找釜山特有美食的话,推荐历史悠久的鱼糕品牌“古思来鱼糕”。用鱼糕面做成的乌冬和海鲜面也特别好吃。真空包装的鱼糕还可以机场托运,带回中国。

 

• Fruity 프루티

交通:地铁2号线金莲山站5号口出去后,第二条巷子拐进去,直走到第二个十字路口的大路上,左转后约步行1分钟即可。(距地铁站约5分钟路程)

地址:釜山广域市水营区广南路51 白山大厦商铺 2层 (부산광역시 수영구 광남로 51 백산맨션상가 2F)

电话:010-9210-8025 (韩)

营业时间:11:00~21:00,周三/周五12:00~21:00

价格:美式咖啡 4,000韩元,早午餐 9,900韩元

 

• 古來思 釜田总店 고래사 부전본점

 

交通:从与地铁1号线釜田站相通的西面地下商业街(서면지하상가)5号口出来后,往右边的釜田市场小镇(부전마켓타운)里直走约1分钟,左边的位置即是。(距地下商业街5号出口约1分钟路程)

地址:釜山广域市釜山镇区中央大路769番街17 (부산광역시 부산진구 중앙대로 769번길 17)

电话:1577-0676 (韩)

营业时间:07:00~19:00 *全年无休

价格:辣味章鱼鱼糕(매콤문어어묵) 1,000韩元,烤虾鱼糕(구운새우어묵) 2,000韩元,鲍鱼鱼糕(전복포장어묵) 3,500韩元,真空包装鱼糕(진공포장어묵) 3,000韩元左右,鱼糕乌冬面(어묵우동) 6,000韩元等 

主页:www.goraesa.com (韩)

 


 

张回正(记者) 장회정

:韩国《京乡新闻》周六版部门的副部长。负责周六版面,生产适合周末阅读的有益新闻。休息的日子经常毫无预警地南下釜山的釜山旅人

 

韩国各类旅行地虽然很多,但春天要去的地方一定就是釜山了。今年春天也和朋友们一起去了釜山,第一晚住在海云台附近的Palede CZ。公寓式建筑里有家名为“Clam”的西班牙餐厅,是个可以在露天座位喝一杯的好去处,到很晚也没关系。以前总去南川洞三益Beach公寓附近看樱花,去年开始改去迎月岭了。从迎月岭往松亭走的这一路,风一吹漫天樱花飞舞,绝对是终身无法遗忘的景象。其他季节的话,一到釜山,我就会马上打车去五六岛。在五六岛上沿着二妓台路散步,整条走下来大概需要一个半小时或是两个小时,不过这是一条沿海的路,心情总是那么畅快。就这样到了广安里,下榻广安大桥正对面的Aqua Palace酒店。在酒店汗蒸房里放松一下身心,在海景房里酣睡一宿,没有比这更好的度假了。想要大家都知道你去了趟釜山的话,把釜山的三大面包店Ops、B&C、白鳩堂都转一遍吧!从过往经验来看,送B&C糕点店最出名的红豆馅派做礼物,大家都会特别喜欢。

 

• Clam 클램

交通:地铁2号线海云台站3号口出来后直走,走到海边后左转,再沿着海边人行道直走,经过PARADISE酒店后看见的Palede CZ大楼,里面1层即是。(距地铁站约15分钟路程)

地址:釜山广域市海云台区海云台海边路298番街24 Palede CZ 1层 (부산광역시 해운대구 해운대해변로298번길 24 팔레드시즈(Palede CZ) 1F)

电话:051-744-2058 (韩)

营业时间:12:00~05:00 *全年无休

价格:西芹蘑菇串(Pinchos de champinon) 4,000韩元,瓦伦西亚式海鲜烩饭(Paella de Marisco) 23,000韩元

 

• B&C糕点 비엔씨 제과

交通:地铁1号线南浦站1号口往前直走,第二条巷子右转进去即可。(距地铁站约3分钟路程)

地址:釜山广域市中区九德路34番街3-1 (부산광역시 중구 구덕로34번길 3-1)

电话:051-245-2361 (韩)

营业时间:08:30~22:30 *节假日休息

价格:红豆馅派(파이만주) 1,500韩元 

主页:www.bnccake.com (韩)

 

• Hotel Aqua Palace 아쿠아팰리스호텔

交通:地铁2号线广安站3号和5号口中间那条街道往前直走,走到海水浴场前右转即是。(距地铁站约13分钟路程)

地址:釜山广域市水营区广安海边路225 (부산광역시 수영구 광안해변로 225)

电话:051-790-2300 (韩)

汗蒸房:白天(05:00~18:00) 12,000韩元,夜间(18:00~05:00) 15,000韩元

主页:www.aquapalace.co.kr (韩) *参考VisitKorea (中) 

 


 

吉永敏(电影制作人) 길영민

:电影公司JK film总经理(制作了包括以釜山为背景的《海云台》和《国际市场》,以及《喜马拉雅》、《共助》等多部高票房电影)

 

釜山是我的故乡。父母本来生活在北朝鲜,如电影《国际市场》里所讲述的,为了躲避战争一路南下,在釜山扎根生活了下来。因此提到釜山,我最先想到的就是小麦面。当时,经由巨济岛来釜山避难的北朝鲜人很多,对想念北边饮食冷面的人们来说,小麦面在很大程度上再现了那个味道。回釜山的时候,一定会顺路去吃一碗伽倻洞的“加耶-面”或是西面的“春夏秋冬”小麦面。最近松亭附近犹如首尔的经理团路般热门,热爱冲浪的人们聚集于此,出现了一批年轻且氛围自由的咖啡店和餐厅。特别是在松亭海水浴场附近的“In Earth Coffee”里,可以享用到美味的的咖啡以及面包。逛完松亭后,去一趟位于岛上的庙宇——海东龙宫寺,欣赏一番独特的风景也未尝不是个好选择。釜山是一个旧城市风貌与海云台这种未来新都市感很强的地方共存的城市。即便是干练的海云台,也存在尾浦这种渔船依旧来往的旧城区,风景悦目,还有别有风情的砾石路。想吃生鱼片的话,推荐来这里。

 

• In Earth Coffee 인얼스커피

交通:东海线地铁松亭站2号口出来,往前直走大约20分钟。位于右侧的褐色建筑物。

地址:釜山广域市海云台区松亭广鱼谷路 58号 (부산광역시 해운대구 송정광어골로 58)

电话:051-703-7666 (韩)

营业时间:09:00~23:00 (周五周六营业至24:00) *年中无休

价格:美式咖啡 4,000韩元,冰滴美式(더치아메리카노) 4,500韩元 

主页:inearthcoffee.com (韩)

 

• 海东龙宫寺 해동용궁사

 

交通:在地铁2号线海云台站7号出口旁边的公交车站海云台城市铁路站(해운대도시철도역정류장)搭乘181路公交车,于龙宫寺国立水产科学院站(용궁사국립수산과학원정류장)下车,三岔口处沿着前往海东龙宫寺方向的巷子步行约13分钟即可。(共需45分钟左右)

地址:釜山广域市机张郡机张邑龙宫路86 (부산광역시 기장군 기장읍 용궁길 86)

电话:051-722-7744 (韩)

门票:免费

主页:yongkungsa.or.kr (韩/中/英/日) *参考VisitKorea (中) 

 


 

编辑/金周慧(김주혜)

 

231comment

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  87. One more thing I would like to mention is that instead of trying to accommodate all your online degree courses on times that you finish work (because most people are worn out when they return), try to arrange most of your classes on the week-ends and only a couple courses on weekdays, even if it means taking some time off your end of the week. This is fantastic because on the week-ends, you will be extra rested along with concentrated in school work. Thanks a lot for the different ideas I have acquired from your blog.

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